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Imagine a cheese with no fewer than 83 detectable natural flavors. A cheese so unique that no two cheeses are ever the same. That cheese is Comte, the most consumed AOC cheese in France.
Being one of my favorite cheeses, I was so excited when the Comté Cheese Association invited us on a whirlwind trip to Comté’s region.
For Claire, who has lived and worked in the region, it was a chance to dive into the intricate cheese-making process.
Over five days, we immersed ourselves in the rich traditions and craft behind this beloved cheese.
From visiting dairy farms and cheesemakers to aging cellars, all peppered with cheese tastings, we delved deep into the world of Comte.
This comprehensive guide offers insights into the cheese, region, artisans, tasting notes, recipes, and more.
We also include a detailed 3-day itinerary for a cheese road trip in eastern France curated from our experience.
What is Comte Cheese?
Of the more than 1,200 varieties of cheese in France, there is one cheese that stands above the rest. That cheese is Comté and it is the highest-consumed AOC Cheese in France.
In 1958, Comté Cheese received the European Union protective status designation AOC (or PDO), ensuring its traditional production and authenticity.
Produced in the Jura mountain region, Comté cheese is made from the raw milk of Montbéliarde or French Simmental breeds of cows.
It’s a hard cheese that’s aged for a minimum of four months up to 18 months, 24 months, and even longer.
Comté Cheese Pronunciation
If you set the accent aside for a moment, the easiest way to pronounce “Comté” is to start with a “k” sound and end with a “tay,” making it sound like “kon-tay.”
Comte Cheese Taste
Comté cheese, we learned, “does not improve with age.” Its taste is formed in aging cold cellars and is determined by the milk’s origin and the salting and curing process.
There is no one singular Comte cheese taste. Each cheese wheel is different and reflects the season, the cheesemaker’s personal touch, and the way it matured in the cellar.
Generally, young Comté cheeses are mild and fruity in taste. The texture is also softer.
Comparatively, aged Comte cheeses, typically 12+ months, have more intense notes and nutty flavors. The aged cheeses are a little drier in texture with small salt-like crystals.
We both generally prefer aged Comte about 18 to 24 months, but were delighted with some young 6 to 8-month Comte cheese we had on the trip.
The most balanced Comte cheeses are between 10 to 12 months. But there are no rules, try whatever you have available.
RELATED: For a unique cheese-tasting experience in France, we recommend this wine and cheese-tasting experience we took in Paris with an expert sommelier. For a complete review with alternatives, check this article about our favorite Wine and Cheese Tasting Tours in Paris.
Where to Buy Comté Cheese
Outside of France, you can buy Comté cheese at most specialty cheese stores in your area.
If you have a Whole Foods nearby, they often carry Comté cheese, but the selection may be limited.
Alternatively, one of the best places to buy Comté cheese is Di Bruno Bros, a culinary powerhouse based in Philadelphia.
Their online store offers Comté cheese aged from 6 months to over 12 months.
Comté Cheese Recipes
Being French and having lived in France, we’ve always been big fans of Comté cheese.
The most common way we enjoy Comté is with a simple green side salad. We also love Comte on cheeseboards alongside a variety of other cheeses.
One tip that we learned about serving Comté, is to pull it out of the refrigerator and eat between 59 °F to 65 °F (15°C to 18°C)
While in the Comte region, we were delighted to discover a wide of mouthwatering ways to enjoy Comte cheese.
You’ll find Comte used in soups, baked vegetable dishes, sandwiches, and the most classic Comté cheese fondue.
One simple Comte cheese recipe is pairing a soft-boiled egg with strips of Comté cheese.
Soft-boil your eggs for about 3 minutes. Then, dip them in cold water to stop them from cooking.
Carefully remove the top of the egg, season with salt and pepper, and enjoy dipping strips of Comté cheese into the rich, runny yolk.
If you have limited access to Comté cheese, we recommend enjoying it on its own to savor its full flavors rather than cooking with it.
However, if you wish to cook with Comté, find a number of different recipes you can explore.
AUTHENTIC FOOD QUEST RECIPE: For more French recipes to pair with Comte cheese, we recommend this Easy Garlic Confit Recipe.
An Introduction to the Comte Region
Like wine, think of the Comte region as a “terroir” for cheese production. The Comte terroir is in the Jura Massif, a beautiful green mountain range.
Similarly to wine, Comte cheese can be produced only in this particular region of France.
In the eastern side of France, bordering Switzerland, the Comte PDO region encompasses three main departments.
- Doubs: pronounced “D-oo,” this department is the furthest north in the Jura, with Besancon as its capital. Besancon is a city worth visiting, with its old town and unique Vauban Citadelle a Unesco heritage site.
- Jura: While the Jura is the name of the mountain, it’s also a department. That’s where you will find the Comte capital, a town called Poligny, which we visited on our trip. We highly recommend visiting the town’s center on your Comte road trip.
- Ain: On the southern side of the Jura massif, you arrive at the Ain department, pronounced “an” It is also known as the first department in France. Neighboring the Geneva region of Switzerland, it goes all the way to border the Savoie region of France.
Meet the Artisans on Les Routes du Comté or Comté Roads
Comté cheese is deeply woven into the local culture. It is a symbol of community as it unites the many players involved in the production of the cheese.
On the Comté Road or Les Routes du Comté, you’ll meet farmers, cheesemakers, and visit the aging cellars where the cheese matures.
Dairy Farmers
The production of Comte cheese begins with raw milk from Montbéliarde and French Simmental cows.
There are about 2,500 small dairy farmers, with more than 150,000 cows, that produce the raw milk needed to make the cheese.
Only about 19 dairy farms are open to visits from the public and bookings must be made in advance. In this itinerary, we highlight one dairy farm that we visited.
Fruitières or Cheesemakers
Fruitières or cheesemaking facilities are where the cheese is made from the milk from the dairy farmers.
According to the Comte rules and regulations, the milk must be transformed to Comté within 24 hours.
The milk is heated in copper vats. Natural starters and rennet are added to the milk to create the cheese curds.
After a period of time, the curds are cut, stirred, and heated again before being poured into cheese molds.
Visiting a fruitière to see the transformation of milk into cheese is a fascinating experience.
There are about 140 fruitières in the Comté region, many of which are open to visitors. Most also have an onsite cheese shop that you can explore.
Aging Cellars or Caves d’Affinage
Within the Comté production zone, there are about 15 specialized aging cellars where the cheese wheels are aged to develop their taste.
These specialized aging cellars are quite spectacular. Many are designed in a cathedral-like style with thousands of cheese wheels stacked on spruce boards, reaching from floor to ceiling.
According to the Comte cheese regulations, each cheese wheel must spend at least 4 months up to 12, 18, or longer in the cellars.
The affineurs or cellar masters care for the cheese wheels by turning, rubbing, and salting them regularly. This process allows the cheese to develop its full flavors and aromas.
We had the unique opportunity to visit aging cellars that are typically closed to the public.
However, in this itinerary, we have noted the three Comté aging cellars that welcome visitors. To visit the cellars, reservations must be made in advance.
Gourmet Cheese Shops
There are several places where you can pick up Comté cheese in the region. In this itinerary, we highlight a few well-known gourmet cheese shops that we visited.
At these gourmet cheese shops, you can sample Comté cheese of different ages crafted by different cheese makers.
In Poligny, the capital of Comté, stop at Juramont or Juraflore. And in Arbois, visit La Cave de Comté.
Gastronomy Stops
Besides cheese, the region also has a rich history in wine-making and gastronomy. Following are a few highlights not to miss.
Restaurants: The cuisine of the Jura is rich and flavorful and reflects the story of the people, terroir, and culture. In this Comte road trip itinerary, we highlight several restaurants worth visiting for a taste of the local cuisine.
Jura Wines: The Jura is one of the smallest wine regions in France. Wines from the regions are not well known nor widely available. While on your road trip, try red wines like Poulsard or Trousseau. Among the white wines, the most celebrated is Vin Jaune, which is made from the region’s distinctive Savagnin grape varietal. Arbois, the capital of Jura wines, is a recommended stop to savor and learn about the regional wines.
Route de l’Absinthe or Absinthe Route: In the Jura mountains between France and Switzerland, there are many distilleries where you can discover the Absinthe spirit and its storied past. In the town of Pontarlier, the capital of Absinthe, you can visit Guy and Les Fils Émile Pernot distilleries for tastings paired with Comté cheese.
READ MORE: 9 Best Cooking Vacations in France To Explore The Local Cuisine
3-Day Itinerary to Comte: A Cheese Road Trip in France Eastern Region
To follow our steps on the “Routes du Comte,” we created this 3-day itinerary with a handy map.
It guides you through this magnificent mountainous region and connects you with the artisans and key players in the cheesemaking process.
Find all the necessary information, including the best stops to make each day.
[adthrive-in-post-video-player video-id=”0c95Vhpg” upload-date=”2024-08-20T09:45:33.000Z” name=”Savor Comte Cheese: The Perfect Road Trip in France” description=”Uncover the secrets of Comté cheese, celebrated for its 83 flavors! Our road trip in France takes you into the heart of Comté’s region, offering an extensive guide that goes beyond a simple itinerary. Discover detailed insights about the cheese, tasting tips, delicious recipes, and where to buy it. Join us as we explore the artistry behind this beloved cheese. Ready for your own adventure? Check out the full guide for an unforgettable cheese road trip in eastern France! ” player-type=”collapse” override-embed=”true”]
Day 1 – Start Your Day in Comte’s Capital
Our recommendation is to kick off your Comté cheese journey at the Maison du Comté. A fabulous experiential museum, it will help you understand Comte’s rich heritage and quality.
To get to Maison du Comté, you have two options. The closest airport is Geneva Airport. From there, you can rent a car and drive approximately two hours through the picturesque mountains.
This is how we started our whirlwind journey through the Jura after a 24-hour flight from the US.
In Geneva, we stayed at the Mercure Geneva Airport Hotel, which is conveniently located near the airport to rent a car.
If you’re coming from Paris, you can take the high-speed TGV from Paris to Dijon, which takes about 1.5 hours.
From Dijon, rent a car and drive about an hour on the direct highway to Poligny, where you will find Maison du Comté.
Get Oriented at La Maison du Comté in Poligny
The town of Poligny, in the heart of the Jura, is the capital of Comté.
It is also home to Maison du Comté, a newly built center inspired by the region’s traditional farm buildings.
More than a museum, Maison du Comté immerses you into the world of this famous cheese through interactive displays.
We found it to be the best place to get a comprehensive view of cheese from farm to table, with English-language support material.
Offering a fun adventure for children and adults alike, you’ll learn how the cheese is produced and the various people involved in the process.
Your senses will be engaged as you smell what the cows eat, listen to farmers and producers, and touch the tools and materials used in the cheese-making process.
The best part is engaging your sense of taste, where you’ll end with a delicious tasting of Comté cheese.
We visited Maison du Comté during the week, but know that it is open most days, except holidays. Plan to spend a fascinating 1.5 hours exploring the cheese.
Taste More Comte at Cheesemonger Shops
While in Poligny, take the time to indulge further in Comte cheese at several cheese stores.
You can sample this exquisite cheese at Comté Juramonts, Comté Juraflore, and Vagne Fromagerie, three iconic cheese shops in the center of Poligny.
At each of these cheese shops, you can buy and sample a range of Comté cheeses.
We particularly enjoyed a tasting of young to aged Comté at the Juramont cheese store. This opened up our taste buds to the diversity and flavor variations of the cheese.
Lunch Break
If you are hungry after the Comte tasting, you are in for a feast at two local restaurants.
- La Sergenterie in Poligny
If you are too hungry to drive to the next town, Poligny has a few lunch spots worth stopping at.
We personally recommend La Sergenterie in the center of Poligny. It’s near the cheese stores and where Claire would eat from time to time while working in the region.
This charming traditional restaurant is housed in a unique 17th-century cellar. The menu features local specialties, including several dishes made with Comté cheese.
- Bois Gourmand in Champagnole
On our comté Cheese road trip, we had lunch in the nearby town of Champagnole, less than 30 minutes away from Poligny.
At the Bois Gourmand Restaurant, we enjoyed an all-inclusive lunch menu featuring regional specialties.
Choose from local fish, like perch and trout, to meat dishes served with morel mushrooms.
Afternoon Visit: Cellars Rivoire et Jacquemin in Montmorot
Now that you’ve had Comté and tasted cheese of different maturation levels, it’s time to go behind the scenes to the aging cellars.
Just a 40-minute drive from Champagnole, the Rivoire et Jacquemin cellars are located at the entrance of town.
Rivoire et Jacquemin is one of the oldest affinage or aging cellars in the Jura region. It was established in 1860 and is now run by the 5th generation.
In the impressive aging cellars, the master affineur or cheesemaker took us around as he inspected the cheese wheels.
The cheese wheels stacked on spruce planks are aged in total silence and darkness.
As we toured the aging cellars, the master affineur would stop periodically, tap the cheese wheel using a special instrument cheese, and pull out a small piece of cheese
We tasted several cheeses with different aging durations. Visiting an affineur is a great way to see the aging process and begin to appreciate the subtle nuances of the diversity of flavors found in Comte cheese.
Rivoire et Jacquemin is open to the public but only for groups. Reservations must be made in advance.
Alternative Cellars Open to Visits
If you are unable to visit this cellar, there are two alternative affineurs that are open to the public. Both cellars are about a 40-minute drive from Champagnole through the mountains.
The price to visit the cellars is about €10 (approx. $11) for adults with reduced rates for children. Advanced booking is mandatory and must be done online.
- Fort Saint-Antoine: This is the aging cellar for the Marcel Petite Comté AOP cheese, one of the varieties of Comté cheese available in the U.S.
- Fort Des Rousses: This is the aging cellar for the cheese shop Comté Juraflore in Poligny. You can sample the cheese ahead of time at their store.
Evening in the Charming Town of Arbois and Overnight Stay
Arbois, also known as a “town of character,” is a charming town to visit. Along the narrow streets and picturesque river are heritage sites and exceptional food and wine stores.
Around the central square, Place de La Liberté, you’ll find wine shops featuring the famous Jura Wine.
Chocolaterie Hirsinger, a more than 100-year-old exquisite chocolate shop, is worth stopping in.
Visits to the Château Pécauld and the Jura Vine and Wine Museum on the ground floor are also recommended.
The famous scientist Louis Pasteur was born in Arbois, and his house is a historical site, with guided visits,
About 5 minutes away from Arbois is the Castel Damandre, a hotel castle surrounded by cliffs. It’s in a lush setting where you are completely in harmony with nature.
Behind the hotel, you’ll find scenic walking trails, including one that leads to a magnificent waterfall.
We enjoyed the tranquil escape and jogging through the nearby small village.
The hotel’s gastronomic restaurant is highly rated for the use of fresh seasonal and local produce.
Alternatively, you can have dinner in Arbois town. This is what we did, dining at the popular La Finette restaurant, historically known for its regional specialties.
The rustic and warm wood decor invites you to savor specialties like Morteau sausage with lentils or chicken served in Arbois wine sauce.
Day 2 – Ancestral to Modern Comte Cheesemaking Visits
Get up early today to visit a historical fromagerie and learn how Comté cheese was made in the 1900s.
Before the short hour’s drive to get there, fuel yourself for the day. At the hotel, we particularly enjoyed the gastronomic breakfast served by the waterfall surrounding the restaurant.
Fromagerie 1900: A Fascinating Cheesemaking Demonstration
Visiting Fruitière 1900 in Thoiria in the Jura region was one of the highlights of our Comté road trip.
Paco and Amandine, two young passionate cheesemakers, bring to life the ancestral way of making Comté in cheesemaking demonstrations.
This is the only remaining Comte producer that makes the cheese in the traditional style of the 1900s.
The cheese is made in an ancient cauldron, cooked over a wood fire, and using wood equipment from that era.
Starting from 9:00 am to 11:00 am, you can visit and watch the cheesemaking demonstration at no cost.
The demonstrations are seasonal and take place from April to August. See the schedule and days on the Fruitière 1900 Facebook page.
Paco and Amandine took over a dairy farm dating back to 1883, so the whole experience is very traditional.
You sit on wood benches, and the walls are decorated with cheese-making artifacts and tools. There is also a store on-site where you can buy cheese made on-site and other regional products.
Seeing how Comte cheese was produced traditionally and contrasting that with stops at some of the modern fruitière on this itinerary is a fascinating experience.
Watch our YouTube short for a sneak peek into this artisanal cheese demonstration.
Savor Fondue for Lunch at Auberge du Lac Genin
Ready for even more Comté? Save room to indulge in the only and most famous fondue made with Comte cheese.
Auberge du Lac Genin restaurant, located about 45 minutes away from the fruitiere is a stunning site through windy roads in the Jura.
The restaurant is idyllically located by Genin Lake and nestled in the mountainous forest. It’s a popular food stop for hikers exploring the region.
Comté cheese fondue is the restaurant’s specialty as well as succulent grilled meat cooked over an open-fire wood stove.
Fondue is best enjoyed with a group. Dip your bread in the simmering cheese pot and enjoy with a salad and cuts of local cured meat.
If you plan to eat at the auberge, you must reserve your fondue in advance.
Afternoon Modern Cheesemaking at a Local Fruitiere
You can choose to spend your afternoon digesting by the lake, enjoying the scenery, or hiking the surrounding trails.
We suggest driving to a nearby fruitiere about half an hour away, on your way to the hotel.
At Fromagerie du Haut-Jura, they make Comte cheese with 21st-century equipment to contrast with your morning visit.
You are invited to visit the cheese dairy with self-guided tours. The tours are conducted in a newly refurbished gallery that allows you to see the workshops.
A ten-minute video rounds off the experience.
Evening Dinner and Stay at Hôtel de l’Abbaye
From the fruitière, drive about 45 minutes through the mountains for dinner and your overnight accommodation.
We stayed at Logis Hôtel de l’Abbaye, a family-run hotel, and recommend this retreat in nature.
The rooms are spacious and elegantly designed, with serene views of the lake, ensuring a relaxing stay.
In the dining room overlooking the lake, we savored a delightful selection of Jura specialties accompanied by Crémant du Jura, the region’s sparkling wine.
For an evening walk, we recommend following the trail to the Grandvaux Abbaye, located about 5 to 10 minutes from the hotel.
Day 3 – Dairy Farm and Fruitiere Visits
This day is dedicated to making Comté, starting with the milk of the specific breed of Comte dairy cows.
In this itinerary, we leave the Jura mountains to reach the southern part of the producing Comte region, l’Ain.
Fuel up with a fabulous breakfast with local produce at Hôtel de l’Abbaye, to get ready for your final day on this Comte itinerary.
Visit La Combe du Val Farm
After about an hour’s drive through the Jura, visit Samuel Pertreux’s farm, La Combe du Val.
A dairy farmer with about 60 cows, he took over the business from his father and today runs his dairy farm with his wife.
On the farm, you’ll see the Montbéliarde and French Simmantal breeds of cows used in the production of Comté Cheese.
We had the opportunity to watch the cows being milked and taste the fresh, rich raw milk of Comte cows.
Visits to Samuel’s farm in Combe du Val must be booked in advance.
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Lunch at “ô Saison Grand Colombier” Restaurant
Leaving the Combe du Val, we drove toward our next stop in the direction of Le Grand Colombier mountain pass.
A famous site in the cycling racing world, you will notice the slope gradually getting steeper.
On your way to your next visit, La Fruitiere du Valromey, we recommend a lunch stop at “ô Saison Grand Colombier” restaurant.
This surprising local restaurant prides itself on serving local produce at great value with a rotating weekly menu.
The decor, while rustic, is warm and inviting. We personally enjoyed the beetroot carpaccio, the beef ribs, and local vegetables.
Afternoon Visit – Fruitière du Valromey and Their Cheese Shop
Within walking distance from the restaurant, you will find La Fruitière du Valromey.
A newly established fruitière in the world of Comte, we were eager to discover one of the latest additions to Les Routes du Comte.
Jérôme Berhier, a farmer and president of the fruitière, welcomed our group and walked us through the Comte cheese-making process.
It was fascinating to see Comte cheese being made, starting with the fresh milk that had been received that morning.
It takes about 5000 liters of milk, we learned, to make 12 wheels of Comte Cheese, each weighing about 80 pounds (36 kg).
In the impeccably clean facility, we watched in fascination as fresh milk was heated in massive copper vats and mixed with starter culture and rennet to form cheese curds.
Using giant blades or cheese cutters, slowly turning in the vats, we watched the curds getting thicker and the cheese begins to form.
Later, in a separate set of tanks, after the cheese curds are thoroughly cut, the whey is drained out, leaving a firm curd.
The curd is set into molds and left to harden for a couple of hours. Later the molds are removed, and the cheese wheels are washed in brine and stored in a cold room before being transferred to the affineurs or aging cellars.
The entire cheese-making process is surprisingly very modern. Even though the techniques remain artisanal, the state-of-the-art equipment ensures precision, blending tradition with technology.
After your visit, stop in the cheese shop, where you can buy cheese and a variety of local products.
Gourmet Dinner at L’Auberge de la Fruitière
Head to Auberge de la Fruitiere restaurant to close the day and end this three-day itinerary filled with delightful encounters.
Located only half an hour from Mercure Hotel in Geneva, this is where we ended our whirlwind trip in the Comte region.
This cozy restaurant offers gourmet and creative French cuisine at an affordable price.
Led by two young chefs who trained in some of the most prestigious French restaurants, their new venue is gaining in popularity.
We enjoyed a delightful dinner with impeccably plated fish, duck, and flavorful beef, all perfectly paired with local wines.
The desserts were outstanding. We savored fresh seasonal red fruits, apricot tarts, and exquisite chocolate, the perfect end to the trip.
Last Night in Geneva, Switzerland
Heading back to Geneva for the last night of this itinerary through the Comte region, we stayed at the Mercure Hotel in Geneva.
It is conveniently located by the airport, and a free shuttle is offered. This is ideal if you plan on catching a flight the next day.
Alternatively, there are numerous hotels in downtown Geneva, including this charming Ruby Claire boutique hotel in the city center.
From Geneva you can also return your rental in Dijon. Count for about 2,5 hours of highway drive.
Geneva also offers an easy connection to the high-speed train, which takes less than three hours to reach Paris.
Have you ever had Comte cheese before? Please let us know what you think of it in the comments below.
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Disclosure: Special thanks to the Comté Cheese Association for having us on this Comté trip. All views and opinions expressed are our own. Full bellies and happy taste buds too.
Rosemary Kimani is the co-founder and editor-in-chief at Authentic Food Quest, where she helps travelers connect with cultures through food and immersive cooking vacations. Since 2015, she and her partner, Claire, have explored the cuisine of 45 countries and 290+ food cities. Her work has been featured in Lonely Planet, Business Insider, Huffington Post, and more. A co-author of three books, including a collaboration with Costa Brava Tourism, she blends storytelling with culinary exploration. When not discovering new flavors, she’s an avid runner, having completed eleven marathons. Previously, she held senior strategy roles in advertising.